You’re throwing away perfectly good fertilizer every day. Those vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, and yard clippings destined for the trash? They could become rich, dark compost that makes your garden thrive—for free.
The quick answer: Composting is the natural process of organic materials breaking down into nutrient-rich soil amendment. All you need is a balance of “greens” (nitrogen-rich materials like food scraps) and “browns” (carbon-rich materials like dry leaves), moisture, and oxygen. Within 2-6 months, you’ll have finished compost—often called “black gold” for its value in the garden.
Here’s everything you need to know to start composting, even if you’ve never grown anything before.
Why Compost?
Before diving into the how-to, let’s cover why composting is worth your time:
For Your Garden
- Improves soil structure: Makes clay soils drain better and sandy soils hold more moisture
- Adds essential nutrients: Slow-release fertilization that feeds plants for months
- Supports beneficial organisms: Earthworms, microbes, and fungi that create healthy soil ecosystems
- Suppresses disease: Healthy soil grows healthier, more disease-resistant plants
For the Environment
- Reduces landfill waste: Food scraps and yard waste make up 30% of what we throw away, according to the EPA
- Cuts methane emissions: Organic matter in landfills produces methane; composting doesn’t
- Decreases chemical fertilizer use: Homemade compost replaces store-bought products
For Your Wallet
- Free fertilizer: Compost costs nothing but time
- Reduced trash hauling: Less waste means potentially smaller bins or fewer pickups
- No more bagged soil: Make your own potting mix amendments
The Science Made Simple
Composting isn’t magic—it’s biology. Understanding the basics helps you troubleshoot problems and make better compost.
What’s Actually Happening
Microorganisms (bacteria and fungi) eat organic matter and break it down. As they work, they generate heat and reproduce rapidly. Eventually, everything gets broken down into stable, nutrient-rich humus—that’s your finished compost.
What Microbes Need
- Food: The organic materials you add
- Oxygen: Why you turn the pile periodically
- Moisture: The pile should be damp like a wrung-out sponge
- Right temperature: Active piles heat to 130-160°F internally
Get these factors balanced, and nature does the rest.
Greens vs. Browns: The Essential Balance
This is the most important concept in composting. Everything you add falls into one of two categories:
Greens (Nitrogen-Rich)
These materials are typically moist and provide protein for the microbes:
- Fruit and vegetable scraps
- Coffee grounds and tea bags
- Fresh grass clippings
- Fresh plant trimmings
- Eggshells (technically neutral, but typically added with greens)
Browns (Carbon-Rich)
These materials are typically dry and provide energy:
- Dried leaves
- Straw or hay
- Cardboard (torn into pieces)
- Newspaper (shredded)
- Paper towels and napkins
- Dried plant stalks
- Wood chips (slow to decompose)
- Sawdust (from untreated wood)
The Ideal Ratio
Aim for roughly 3 parts browns to 1 part greens by volume. This provides the right carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (about 30:1) for optimal decomposition.
In my experience: Most beginners add too many greens. We generate lots of food scraps but forget to collect brown materials. Start stockpiling dried leaves in fall—you’ll need them year-round.
What NOT to Compost
Some materials cause problems or take too long to break down:
Never Add
- Meat, fish, bones: Attract pests, create odors
- Dairy products: Same issues as meat
- Oils and fats: Slow decomposition, attract pests
- Pet waste (dogs, cats): Contains harmful pathogens
- Diseased plants: Can spread problems to your garden
- Weeds with seeds: Seeds may survive and sprout in your garden
- Treated wood products: Chemicals don’t belong in your garden
- Plastic, metal, glass: Won’t decompose (obviously)
Add With Caution
- Citrus peels: High acidity can slow decomposition; add in moderation
- Onions and garlic: May repel beneficial organisms; use sparingly
- Grass clippings: Great in thin layers; clump and get slimy in large amounts
- Bread and pasta: Can attract pests if pile isn’t hot; bury in center
Choosing a Composting Method
Different methods suit different situations. Here are your main options:
Open Pile (Simplest)
Literally a heap of materials in a corner of your yard.
Pros: Free, easy to start, handles large volumes
Cons: Can look messy, may attract wildlife, slower decomposition
Best for: Rural properties, large yards, gardeners with lots of yard waste
Enclosed Bin
Purchased or DIY container that holds materials neatly.
Pros: Neater appearance, some pest protection, retains heat better
Cons: Costs money, limited capacity, harder to turn materials
Best for: Suburban yards, moderate waste volumes, appearance-conscious gardeners
Tumbler
Rotating barrel on a stand that’s easy to spin.
Pros: Easy turning, faster composting, fully enclosed
Cons: Higher cost ($100-300), limited capacity, can get too wet
Best for: Smaller yards, those with physical limitations, impatient composters
Three-Bin System
Multiple bins for different composting stages.
Pros: Continuous production, efficient large-scale composting
Cons: Requires more space and materials, more complex to manage
Best for: Serious gardeners, those with significant waste streams
Indoor/Vermicomposting
Using worms in a bin indoors or on a balcony.
Pros: Works in apartments, year-round composting, odor-free when done right
Cons: Limited capacity, requires managing worm population, more hands-on
Best for: Apartment dwellers, those with no outdoor space
How to Start: Step-by-Step
Step 1: Choose Your Location
Select a spot that’s:
- Convenient to kitchen (you’ll be carrying scraps regularly)
- Accessible for adding materials and turning
- Well-drained (not in a low spot that collects water)
- Partially shaded (full sun dries piles too fast; full shade slows decomposition)
- On soil if possible (allows beneficial organisms to enter from below)
Step 2: Build Your Foundation
Start with a 4-6 inch layer of coarse brown materials:
- Small sticks and branches
- Straw or dried stalks
- Coarse wood chips
This creates air channels at the bottom for drainage and aeration.
Step 3: Layer Your Materials
Build the pile in alternating layers:
- 4-6 inches of browns
- 2-3 inches of greens
- Thin layer of finished compost or garden soil (optional, adds microbes)
- Repeat until pile is 3-4 feet tall
Water each layer as you build—materials should be moist but not soaking wet.
Step 4: Maintain the Pile
Ongoing care ensures efficient composting:
- Turn every 1-2 weeks: Move outer materials to the center, inner to outside
- Monitor moisture: Add water if too dry; add browns if too wet
- Keep adding materials: Fresh inputs keep the process going
- Check temperature: Hot pile (130-160°F in center) means active decomposition
Step 5: Harvest Finished Compost
Your compost is ready when it:
- Looks dark brown to black
- Has an earthy smell (not rotting or ammonia)
- Has a crumbly texture
- No longer heats up when turned
- Original materials aren’t recognizable
Depending on method and conditions, this takes 2-6 months.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Problem: Pile Smells Bad
Ammonia smell: Too much nitrogen (greens). Add more browns and turn.
Rotten smell: Too wet or too compacted. Add browns, turn more frequently, ensure drainage.
Problem: Nothing Is Happening
Likely causes:
- Too dry—add water
- Too much carbon (browns)—add greens
- Pile too small—should be at least 3x3x3 feet to heat up
- Not enough turning—oxygen is essential
Problem: Attracting Pests
Solutions:
- Bury food scraps in the center of the pile
- Avoid meat, dairy, and oils
- Use an enclosed bin
- Keep pile active and hot (heat deters many pests)
Problem: Pile Is Too Wet
Solutions:
- Add dry brown materials
- Turn more frequently
- Cover during heavy rain
- Improve drainage beneath pile
Problem: Pile Won’t Heat Up
Possible causes:
- Pile is finished (no heat is normal for done compost)
- Not enough greens
- Pile is too small
- Weather is too cold (normal in winter)
Hot vs. Cold Composting
Understanding these two approaches helps you choose what works for your lifestyle:
Hot Composting
- Pile reaches 130-160°F
- Requires careful balance and regular turning
- Finishes in 1-3 months
- Kills weed seeds and pathogens
- More effort but faster results
Cold Composting
- Pile stays at ambient temperature
- Add materials as available, minimal turning
- Finishes in 6-12 months
- May not kill all weed seeds
- Less effort but slower results
Most home composters end up somewhere in between—turning occasionally, not obsessing over ratios, and getting good compost in 3-6 months.
Using Your Finished Compost
Once you’ve made it, put it to work:
Soil Amendment
Mix 2-4 inches of compost into garden beds before planting. This improves soil structure, adds nutrients, and increases water retention.
Mulch
Spread 2-3 inches around plants (not touching stems). Compost mulch suppresses weeds, retains moisture, and continues feeding plants as it breaks down.
Potting Mix Ingredient
Mix compost with perlite and peat or coir for container planting. A typical recipe: 1/3 compost, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 peat moss.
Compost Tea
Steep finished compost in water for 1-3 days, strain, and use as liquid fertilizer. Great for foliar feeding or watering seedlings.
Lawn Top-Dressing
Spread thin layer (1/4-1/2 inch) over lawn in spring or fall. Improves soil and feeds grass without synthetic fertilizers.
Seasonal Composting Tips
Spring
Turn winter piles to restart activity. Add fresh greens from garden cleanup. Good time to spread finished compost on beds.
Summer
Piles work fastest but may dry out. Water during dry spells. Lots of greens available—balance with stored browns.
Fall
Prime time to collect browns (leaves!). Stockpile leaves for year-round use. Start or add to piles before frost.
Winter
Composting slows dramatically in cold climates. Keep adding materials—they’ll break down when it warms up. Insulate piles with straw or leaves to maintain some activity.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Adding Only Food Scraps
Without browns, you get a slimy, smelly mess. Always balance greens with carbon sources.
Letting the Pile Dry Out
Dry piles don’t decompose. Keep materials consistently moist—like a damp sponge.
Never Turning
Oxygen is essential for composting (vs. anaerobic decomposition, which smells). Turn at least every few weeks.
Making Piles Too Small
Small piles can’t retain heat. Aim for at least 3x3x3 feet for hot composting.
Giving Up Too Soon
Composting takes months, not days. Be patient—nature is doing the work.
Composting in Small Spaces
No yard? You can still compost:
Vermicomposting (Worm Bin)
Red wiggler worms in a bin can handle kitchen scraps indoors. Produces high-quality worm castings (vermicompost). Requires learning worm care, but very effective for apartment living.
Bokashi
Fermentation system that “pre-composts” food waste, including meat and dairy. Materials then get buried in soil or added to regular compost. Good for those with limited outdoor space.
Community Composting
Many cities offer drop-off composting programs or community gardens with shared compost bins. You contribute scraps; someone else manages the process.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does composting take?
With active management (turning, proper balance), 2-4 months. With minimal effort (cold composting), 6-12 months. Variables like temperature, materials, and moisture all affect timing.
Can I compost in winter?
Yes, though activity slows significantly in cold climates. Keep adding materials—they’ll break down when temperatures rise. Larger, insulated piles maintain more activity through winter.
Does compost smell bad?
Properly managed compost smells earthy and pleasant—like forest floor. Bad smells indicate problems: too wet, too many greens, or materials that shouldn’t be there (meat, dairy). These are fixable.
Can I add weeds to my compost?
Yes, if your pile gets hot enough (140°F+) to kill seeds. For cold composting, avoid weeds with seeds. Always avoid adding weeds that spread by root fragments (like bindweed).
Is composting good for the environment?
Absolutely. The EPA notes that food scraps and yard waste make up about 30% of what we throw away. Composting diverts this from landfills (where it produces methane) and creates a valuable soil amendment.
Do I need special equipment to start?
No. You can start with just a pile on the ground. A pitchfork for turning helps. Bins and tumblers are conveniences, not necessities. Start simple and upgrade if needed.
Final Thoughts
Composting is one of the most satisfying things you can do as a gardener. You’re taking waste—stuff that would sit in a landfill for decades—and transforming it into something that makes your garden flourish.
Don’t overthink it. Start a pile, add your scraps and yard waste, turn it occasionally, and wait. Nature has been composting for billions of years. Your job is just to help the process along.
The hardest part is simply beginning. Once you start, you’ll wonder why you ever threw food scraps in the trash. Your garden will thank you with healthier plants and better harvests—all fed by “waste” that used to cost you in garbage bags.
Ready to put your compost to work? Check out our guide to raised bed gardening for the perfect place to use your homemade “black gold,” or explore our beginner gardening tips for more ways to grow successfully.
