The growing season is winding down, your tomato plants are looking tired, and frost is just around the corner. It’s tempting to walk away from the garden until spring—but what you do (and don’t do) in the next few weeks will dramatically affect next year’s success.
The quick answer: Fall garden preparation includes removing spent plants, adding organic matter to soil, planting garlic and cover crops, protecting perennials, cleaning and storing tools, and making notes for next season. Spending 4-6 hours on fall prep saves you weeks of work in spring and sets the stage for a healthier, more productive garden.
Here’s your complete fall garden checklist—with everything you need to do before the ground freezes.
Why Fall Garden Prep Matters
It’s easy to view fall garden work as optional housekeeping. It’s not. Here’s what’s actually at stake:
Disease and Pest Prevention
Many plant diseases and pests overwinter in garden debris. Those tomato plants with early blight? The cucumber vines affected by powdery mildew? If you leave them in the garden, fungal spores and pest eggs survive in the soil and plant material, ready to reinfect next year’s crops.
The Old Farmer’s Almanac emphasizes that removing diseased plant material is one of the most effective ways to break disease cycles without chemicals.
Soil Health
Fall is the ideal time to amend soil. Materials like compost, manure, and leaves have months to break down and integrate before spring planting. Soil microorganisms remain active longer than plants do, continuing to process organic matter well into fall.
Head Start on Spring
Every task completed in fall is one less task competing for your attention during the busy spring planting season. Fall-planted garlic, prepared beds, and clean tools mean you hit the ground running when the soil warms up.
The Complete Fall Garden Prep Checklist
1. Remove Spent Vegetable Plants
Clear out annual vegetables that have finished producing:
- Pull entire plants (roots and all) rather than just cutting at soil level
- Healthy material goes to the compost pile
- Diseased material goes in the trash or municipal green waste (not home compost)
- Remove stakes, cages, and trellises for cleaning and storage
In my experience: I used to leave tomato plants until they completely died back, thinking I was being thorough. Now I remove them once production stops—waiting just invites disease and makes cleanup harder when stems get brittle.
2. Harvest and Process the Last of Your Crops
Don’t let late-season vegetables go to waste:
- Green tomatoes: Ripen indoors or make fried green tomatoes or green tomato chutney
- Peppers: Harvest all before frost; freeze or dry extras
- Winter squash: Cure in warm, dry location for 10 days before storage
- Root vegetables: Many (carrots, parsnips, beets) can stay in ground with mulch cover until needed
- Herbs: Harvest and dry or freeze for winter cooking
3. Deal with Weeds Now
Weeds that go to seed in fall create exponentially more work next year:
- Pull or hoe weeds before they set seed
- Remove entire root systems of perennial weeds
- Don’t compost weeds with seed heads
One plant producing 1,000 seeds creates 1,000 potential weeds next spring. It’s simple math—removing weeds now is far easier than battling their offspring later.
4. Add Organic Matter to Soil
This is the most valuable thing you can do for your soil:
What to add:
- Compost: 2-4 inches spread on beds and lightly worked in. Check out our complete composting guide if you’re making your own.
- Shredded leaves: Free, abundant, and excellent for soil structure
- Aged manure: Must be well-composted; fresh manure can burn plants
- Straw: Good for pathways and as mulch layer
How to apply:
- Spread 2-4 inches of organic matter over beds
- Lightly work into top few inches of soil (or leave on surface in no-till systems)
- Water if soil is dry to help materials begin breaking down
Montana State University Extension notes that fall amendments have time to stabilize in soil, releasing nutrients gradually rather than in one overwhelming flush.
5. Plant Garlic and Fall Bulbs
Garlic needs a cold period to develop properly—fall planting is essential:
Garlic planting basics:
- Plant 4-6 weeks before ground freezes (usually October in most zones)
- Separate cloves from bulb just before planting
- Plant pointed end up, 2 inches deep, 6 inches apart
- Mulch heavily after planting (4-6 inches of straw or leaves)
- Harvest next summer when lower leaves brown
Fall is also the time to plant spring-flowering bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and crocuses if you want color before your vegetables go in.
6. Consider Cover Crops
Cover crops (also called green manure) protect and improve soil over winter:
Benefits of cover crops:
- Prevent erosion from winter rain and snow
- Suppress winter weeds
- Add organic matter when turned under in spring
- Some (like clover and vetch) fix nitrogen in soil
Good choices for fall planting:
| Cover Crop | Benefits | When to Plant |
|---|---|---|
| Winter rye | Cold hardy, excellent biomass | Through late fall |
| Crimson clover | Fixes nitrogen, attracts pollinators | 6-8 weeks before frost |
| Field peas | Nitrogen fixer, quick growing | Early fall |
| Oats | Quick cover, winter kills (easy removal) | Early-mid fall |
Turn cover crops under 2-4 weeks before spring planting to allow decomposition.
7. Protect Perennials and Tender Plants
Perennial vegetables, herbs, and ornamentals need winter preparation:
For perennial herbs and vegetables:
- Cut back dead foliage (leave 2-4 inches)
- Apply 4-6 inches of mulch around (not on top of) crowns
- Protect tender plants like rosemary with burlap windbreaks in cold zones
For fruit trees and berry bushes:
- Remove fallen fruit and leaves (harbor pests and disease)
- Apply dormant oil spray after leaf drop for pest control
- Wrap young tree trunks to prevent sunscald
- Protect berry canes from deer with fencing if needed
8. Clean and Store Tools
Well-maintained tools last decades; neglected ones rust and fail:
End-of-season tool care:
- Clean: Remove all soil and debris with a stiff brush
- Disinfect: Wipe blades with rubbing alcohol or dilute bleach solution
- Remove rust: Use steel wool or wire brush on any rust spots
- Sharpen: Hone edges on pruners, hoes, and shovels
- Oil: Apply thin coat of oil (vegetable or machine oil) to metal parts
- Store dry: Hang tools in a shed or garage, off damp concrete floors
In my experience: I keep a bucket of sand mixed with vegetable oil in the shed. After each use, I plunge shovel and hoe blades into it—cleans and oils in one step. By spring, my tools are still in perfect condition.
9. Clean Up Containers and Season Extension Equipment
Pots and containers:
- Empty annual containers and store pots upside down or inside
- Scrub pots with dilute bleach solution to kill disease organisms
- Terra cotta and ceramic pots crack in freezing weather—bring indoors
Row covers and cold frames:
- Clean fabric row covers and store dry
- Repair or replace damaged plastic
- Make sure cold frame lids open and close properly
10. Test Your Soil
Fall is an ideal time for soil testing because:
- Labs are less busy (faster results)
- You have time to amend before spring planting
- Amendments like lime need months to change soil pH
Contact your local cooperative extension for soil testing services—usually $15-30 for comprehensive results with specific recommendations.
11. Make Notes and Plan
Your memory of this year’s garden will fade faster than you think:
Record now while it’s fresh:
- What varieties performed well (and which didn’t)
- Where diseases or pest problems occurred
- Which beds grew what (for crop rotation planning)
- First and last frost dates in your area this year
- Ideas for next year while you’re standing in the garden
A simple notebook or phone notes work fine—just capture the information while it’s fresh.
What NOT to Do in Fall
Some well-intentioned fall practices actually hurt your garden:
Don’t Remove All Plant Debris
Some “messiness” provides valuable habitat:
- Leave some perennial flower stalks standing—seeds feed winter birds, hollow stems shelter beneficial insects
- Leave leaf litter under shrubs—provides overwintering habitat for butterflies and beneficial insects
- Don’t bag all your leaves for curbside pickup—shred and use as mulch or compost browns
Our pollinator garden guide explains why some garden debris is actually beneficial habitat.
Don’t Prune Trees and Shrubs
Fall pruning stimulates new growth that can’t harden off before winter. Wait until late winter or early spring for most pruning.
Don’t Fertilize
Fertilizing in fall pushes tender new growth that’s vulnerable to frost damage. The exception is applying slow-release organic amendments (like compost) that break down over winter.
Don’t Till Wet Soil
Working wet soil destroys structure, creating compaction that takes years to fix. Wait until soil is moist but not sticky.
Fall Prep by Garden Type
Raised Beds
- Top-dress with 2-4 inches of compost (no tilling needed)
- Check bed frames for needed repairs
- Cover with cardboard or mulch to suppress winter weeds
- Excellent candidates for cover crops in winter
Our raised bed guide covers maintaining these productive growing spaces.
Container Gardens
- Empty annual containers completely
- Perennials in containers need root protection—bury pots in ground or mulch heavily
- Store empty pots upside down or bring inside
- Old potting soil can go in garden beds or compost
In-Ground Gardens
- Remove all annual debris
- Add organic matter and lightly incorporate
- Plant cover crop or apply heavy mulch layer
- Mark bed edges clearly for spring
Timing Your Fall Garden Prep
Timing varies by climate, but here’s a general guide:
6-8 Weeks Before First Frost
- Plant cover crops that need time to establish
- Plant garlic
- Take soil test
- Harvest tender crops before frost threat
After First Light Frost
- Harvest remaining warm-season crops
- Begin removing spent plants
- Apply mulch to perennials
- Plant spring bulbs
After Hard Frost (Killing Frost)
- Complete plant removal and cleanup
- Add organic matter to beds
- Clean and store tools
- Put garden to bed for winter
Before Ground Freezes
- Complete any soil amendments
- Final mulching
- Drain and store hoses
- Turn off outdoor water supply
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Waiting Until Spring
Spring arrives with a rush—everything needs doing at once. Fall prep spreads the workload and gives amendments time to integrate with soil.
Leaving Diseased Material
That blighted tomato plant left in the garden ensures blight returns next year. Remove and dispose of diseased material in trash, not compost.
Forgetting About Tools
Tools left outside or stored dirty rust and degrade. Fifteen minutes of fall tool care saves buying replacements.
Cutting Back Everything
Over-tidying destroys beneficial insect habitat and wildlife food sources. Leave some natural structure in ornamental areas.
Ignoring Drainage Issues
Fall rains reveal drainage problems. Note soggy areas now and plan to improve them before next spring.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I till my garden in fall?
Opinions vary. Light cultivation to work in amendments is fine. Deep tilling disrupts soil structure and kills beneficial organisms. Many gardeners are moving toward no-till methods—adding amendments on top and letting worms and microbes incorporate them.
Can I leave root vegetables in the ground over winter?
Yes, for many root crops. Carrots, parsnips, turnips, and beets can overwinter in the ground with heavy mulch protection (8-12 inches of straw). They’ll be sweeter after frost converts some starches to sugars. Harvest before ground thaws in spring.
What do I do with all my fall leaves?
Leaves are garden gold! Shred with a mower and use as mulch, add to compost as “browns,” or pile in a corner to create leaf mold (partially composted leaves) for next year. Never bag and send to landfill—that’s wasting valuable organic matter.
Should I apply lime in fall?
If your soil test indicates low pH (acidic soil), fall is the ideal time to apply lime. It takes several months to change soil pH, so fall application means soil is ready for spring planting.
How do I protect strawberries over winter?
After several hard frosts (when plants are dormant but before deep freeze), cover strawberry beds with 4-6 inches of straw or shredded leaves. Remove mulch gradually in spring when new growth emerges.
What if I don’t have time for everything?
Prioritize: (1) Remove diseased plant material, (2) Add organic matter to soil, (3) Clean tools. These three tasks provide the most benefit for the least time investment.
Final Thoughts
Fall garden prep is an investment in next year’s success. Every hour spent now saves multiple hours in spring and results in healthier soil, fewer pest and disease problems, and a more productive garden.
The garden is winding down, but your work isn’t quite finished. Spend a few weekends putting the garden to bed properly, and you’ll be rewarded with a strong start when the growing season returns.
There’s something satisfying about tucking the garden in for winter—knowing you’ve done what you can to set up next year’s success. The beds are amended, the tools are clean, and the notes are made. When spring arrives with its frenzy of planting, you’ll be glad you took the time.
Looking to expand your garden knowledge? Learn about natural pest control methods to reduce chemical use next season, or check out our beginner gardening tips if you’re still building your gardening foundation.
