You love cooking with fresh herbs—there’s nothing quite like snipping basil straight onto your pasta or adding fresh mint to your tea. But every time you buy those little plastic containers at the grocery store, half the herbs go bad before you use them. The solution? Growing your own herbs indoors, where they’re always at arm’s reach.
The quick answer: Most culinary herbs thrive indoors with 6+ hours of sunlight (or a grow light), well-draining pots, and consistent watering. The easiest herbs to start with are basil, mint, chives, and parsley. With a sunny windowsill and basic care, you can harvest fresh herbs year-round—saving money and elevating every meal you cook.
Here’s your complete guide to starting and maintaining a productive indoor herb garden.
Why Grow Herbs Indoors?
Before diving into the how-to, let’s cover why indoor herb gardening is worth your time:
- Year-round harvest: No waiting for growing season—fresh herbs in January and July
- Cost savings: A $3 herb plant produces more than a dozen $3 grocery store packs
- Convenience: Step from stove to plant and back in seconds
- Freshness: Herbs begin losing flavor the moment they’re cut—yours stay fresh until you need them
- No outdoor space required: Perfect for apartments, condos, or homes with limited yard space
According to the National Gardening Association, herbs are one of the most commonly grown plants by first-time gardeners—and indoor growing removes many of the barriers that make outdoor gardening intimidating.
The Best Herbs to Grow Indoors
Not all herbs thrive equally indoors. Here are the most successful choices, ranked by ease of growing:
Beginner-Friendly (Almost Foolproof)
Mint: Practically indestructible. Actually grows TOO well—always plant in its own container or it will take over. Great for tea, cocktails, and desserts.
Chives: Tolerates lower light than most herbs. Snip as needed; they grow back continuously. Mild onion flavor for eggs, potatoes, and salads.
Basil: The classic kitchen herb. Needs warmth and good light but rewards you with abundant leaves for pesto, caprese, and Thai dishes.
Parsley: Both flat-leaf (Italian) and curly varieties grow well indoors. Cut-and-come-again harvesting keeps plants productive for months.
Moderate Difficulty
Cilantro: Trickier because it bolts (goes to seed) quickly in warm conditions. Succession plant every 3-4 weeks for continuous harvest. Essential for salsa, curries, and Asian dishes.
Oregano: Mediterranean herb that prefers drier conditions. Don’t overwater. Strong flavor—a little goes a long way.
Thyme: Compact growth makes it ideal for windowsills. Needs excellent drainage and doesn’t like wet feet.
Sage: Larger plant that may need a bigger pot. Drought-tolerant once established. Perfect for poultry dishes and fall cooking.
Challenging (But Possible)
Rosemary: The diva of indoor herbs. Needs excellent light, good air circulation, and hates both overwatering and underwatering. Worth the effort if you can master its preferences.
Lavender: Requires very bright light and perfect drainage. Better suited to a south-facing window than most indoor spots.
Dill: Grows tall and leggy indoors. Better to succession plant frequently and harvest young.
Light: The Most Critical Factor
Light determines success or failure with indoor herbs more than any other factor. Here’s what you need to know:
Natural Light Requirements
Most culinary herbs need 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. In practical terms:
- South-facing windows: Best option, providing the most light year-round
- West or east-facing windows: Usually adequate for most herbs, especially in summer
- North-facing windows: Too dim for most herbs; consider grow lights
In my experience: I’ve killed more indoor herbs from insufficient light than any other cause. What looks bright to your eyes may not be enough for sun-loving plants. When in doubt, choose your brightest spot.
Signs Your Herbs Need More Light
- Leggy, stretched growth reaching toward the window
- Pale, yellowing leaves
- Slow growth or stunted plants
- Weak flavor in harvested leaves
Grow Lights: The Game Changer
If your natural light is limited—or you want to guarantee success—grow lights are worth considering. Modern LED grow lights are:
- Energy efficient (pennies per day to run)
- Low heat (won’t burn plants or raise room temperature)
- Long-lasting (50,000+ hours)
- Increasingly affordable ($30-100 for a setup sufficient for herbs)
Position lights 6-12 inches above plants and run them 12-16 hours daily. A simple timer makes this hands-off. Grow lights can turn any corner of your home into productive herb-growing space.
Choosing Containers
The right pot makes a significant difference in herb health:
Essential Features
- Drainage holes: Non-negotiable. Herbs hate sitting in water. Every pot needs holes in the bottom.
- Size: 6-8 inch diameter for most herbs. Smaller pots dry out too quickly; larger ones hold too much moisture.
- Material: Terra cotta breathes well and dries faster (good for Mediterranean herbs like rosemary). Plastic retains moisture longer (better for basil and parsley).
Creative Container Options
Don’t feel limited to standard pots:
- Mason jars (with drainage added)
- Window boxes for multiple herbs
- Tiered stands to maximize windowsill space
- Hanging planters for trailing herbs like oregano
- Self-watering pots (great for forgetful waterers)
The Saucer Situation
Always use saucers to catch drainage water—but empty them after watering. Herbs sitting in water-filled saucers develop root rot quickly.
Soil and Planting
The Right Soil Mix
Regular garden soil doesn’t work indoors—it compacts, drains poorly, and may harbor pests. Use:
- Quality potting mix designed for containers
- Consider adding perlite (20-30%) for Mediterranean herbs that need extra drainage
- Avoid mixes with added fertilizer for herbs—it can cause excessive leaf growth with less flavor
Planting from Seeds vs. Starts
Seeds: Cheaper and more variety available. Takes 4-8 weeks before first harvest. Good for: basil, cilantro, parsley, chives.
Transplants: Instant gratification—harvest within days. Higher initial cost. Best for: rosemary, thyme, oregano, sage (slow from seed).
For beginners, I recommend starting with transplants from a nursery. You’ll have harvestable herbs immediately while you learn their care preferences.
Planting Tips
- Fill pot with moistened potting mix (dry mix is hydrophobic)
- Plant at the same depth the herb was growing previously
- Firm soil gently around roots
- Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom
- Place in appropriate light immediately
Watering Indoor Herbs
Watering is where most indoor herb gardens fail. Here’s how to get it right:
The Golden Rule
Check soil moisture before watering—not on a schedule. Stick your finger an inch into the soil:
- Dry: Water thoroughly
- Moist: Wait and check again tomorrow
- Wet: Definitely wait; you may be overwatering
Watering by Herb Type
| Prefers Moist Soil | Prefers to Dry Between Watering |
|---|---|
| Basil | Rosemary |
| Parsley | Thyme |
| Mint | Oregano |
| Chives | Sage |
| Cilantro | Lavender |
This is why grouping herbs by water needs makes sense—Mediterranean herbs together, moisture-lovers together.
Signs of Watering Problems
Overwatering (more common):
- Yellow, wilting leaves (even though soil is wet)
- Brown, mushy stems at soil level
- Fungus gnats around soil surface
- Moldy smell from pot
Underwatering:
- Wilting that recovers after watering
- Dry, crispy leaf edges
- Slow growth
- Soil pulling away from pot edges
Temperature and Humidity
Indoor conditions generally suit herbs well, with a few considerations:
Temperature
Most culinary herbs thrive at typical indoor temperatures (60-75°F). Avoid:
- Cold drafts from windows or doors
- Hot air from heating vents
- Temperature swings greater than 15-20 degrees
Basil is particularly cold-sensitive—temperatures below 50°F cause leaf damage.
Humidity
Indoor winter air is often very dry. While most herbs tolerate this, some appreciate extra humidity:
- Group plants together (they create humidity for each other)
- Set pots on pebble trays filled with water (pot sits on pebbles, not in water)
- Mist occasionally (though this is less effective than other methods)
- Run a humidifier nearby
Feeding Your Herbs
Indoor herbs need less fertilizer than you might expect. The goal is steady, moderate growth—not rapid, lush foliage (which often has less flavor).
When to Fertilize
- Begin feeding 4-6 weeks after planting (fresh potting mix has nutrients)
- Feed monthly during active growth (spring through fall)
- Reduce or stop feeding in winter when growth slows
What to Use
A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength works well. Organic options like fish emulsion or seaweed extract are excellent for herbs you’ll eat. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers that push excessive leaf growth at the expense of flavor.
Harvesting for Maximum Production
Proper harvesting actually increases herb production. Here’s how:
The Pinching Principle
For bushy herbs like basil, mint, and oregano:
- Harvest by pinching or cutting stem tips
- Cut just above a leaf node (where leaves attach to the stem)
- This encourages branching—two new stems grow where you cut one
- Never remove more than one-third of the plant at once
Herb-Specific Harvesting
Basil: Pinch stem tips frequently to prevent flowering. Once basil flowers, leaf production slows and flavor changes.
Mint: Harvest aggressively—it grows back fast. Cut entire stems down to soil level periodically to rejuvenate the plant.
Parsley: Cut outer stems first, leaving the center to continue growing. Flat-leaf varieties have more flavor.
Chives: Snip with scissors, cutting blades down to 2 inches above soil. They regenerate quickly.
Rosemary/Thyme: Snip stem tips or small sprigs. Avoid cutting into old, woody growth—it doesn’t regenerate well.
Common Problems and Solutions
Leggy, Stretched Plants
Cause: Insufficient light
Solution: Move to brighter location or add grow lights. Prune back leggy growth to encourage bushier habit.
Yellow Leaves
Cause: Usually overwatering, sometimes nutrient deficiency or too little light
Solution: Let soil dry before watering. Ensure adequate drainage. Check light levels.
Wilting Despite Wet Soil
Cause: Root rot from overwatering
Solution: Reduce watering immediately. In severe cases, repot with fresh soil, removing damaged roots.
Tiny Flying Insects (Fungus Gnats)
Cause: Consistently moist soil surface
Solution: Let top inch of soil dry between waterings. Add a layer of sand on soil surface. Use yellow sticky traps.
Aphids or Other Pests
Cause: Common pests that target indoor plants
Solution: Spray with water to dislodge. Use insecticidal soap if persistent. Isolate affected plants.
Herb Bolts (Goes to Seed)
Cause: Stress, usually from heat, drought, or being root-bound
Solution: Harvest seeds if desired, then pull and replant. For cilantro and dill, succession plant regularly.
Indoor Herb Garden Setups
Simple Windowsill Garden
The classic approach: 3-5 pots on a sunny windowsill. Best for south-facing windows. Essentially free if you have the window space.
Tiered Stand System
A plant stand near a window maximizes vertical space. Fit 8-12 herbs in the footprint of 2-3 pots. Good for serious cooks who use many herbs.
Grow Light Shelf
A shelving unit with LED lights underneath each shelf. Completely independent of window space. Can grow herbs year-round anywhere in your home. Initial investment ($100-300) pays off in production capacity.
Hydroponic Systems
Countertop hydroponic gardens like AeroGarden or Click & Grow grow herbs in water with built-in lights. Hands-off and reliable, but limited capacity and ongoing pod costs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I grow herbs indoors year-round?
Yes—that’s the whole point! With adequate light (natural or artificial), herbs grow continuously regardless of outdoor seasons. Winter growth may slow slightly due to lower light levels, but you’ll still harvest year-round.
Why does my indoor basil keep dying?
The most common causes: insufficient light, overwatering, or cold temperatures. Basil needs at least 6 hours of direct sun (or 12+ hours under grow lights), soil that dries slightly between waterings, and temperatures consistently above 50°F.
Should I grow herbs in water or soil?
Either works, but soil is easier for most people. Water-grown herbs (hydroponics) require changing the water regularly and adding nutrients. Soil provides a more forgiving, buffered growing environment.
Can I transplant grocery store herbs?
Sometimes. The herb containers from grocery stores often contain multiple plants crowded together. You can separate and transplant them, but they’re typically grown for quick sale, not long life. Nursery plants are better investments for long-term growing.
How do I keep mint from taking over?
Always grow mint in its own container—never with other herbs. Its aggressive root system will crowd out anything planted with it. Even in its own pot, mint may need dividing and repotting annually.
Why do my herbs have weak flavor?
Usually caused by too little light, over-fertilizing, or overwatering. Herbs grown in challenging conditions (adequate light but not excessive water or fertilizer) concentrate their essential oils, producing stronger flavor.
Final Thoughts
Starting an indoor herb garden is one of the most rewarding beginner gardening projects. The barrier to entry is low—a few pots, some quality soil, and a sunny window—but the payoff is immediate. Fresh herbs at arm’s reach transform everyday cooking.
Start simple: pick three herbs you actually use in your cooking, buy healthy transplants, and place them in your brightest window. Learn their watering preferences. Harvest regularly to encourage bushy growth. Within a few weeks, you’ll wonder why you ever bought those sad plastic containers at the store.
The kitchen windowsill herb garden is a gateway. Once you experience the satisfaction of fresh herbs year-round, you might find yourself expanding into other indoor growing projects—or taking your newfound confidence outdoors.
Ready to grow more? Our container gardening guide covers growing vegetables and more in limited space, while our vegetable planting guide helps you time your garden perfectly if you’re ready to expand outdoors.
